Dilution means mixing a cleaner concentrate with water using a ratio so it is strong enough to work but not so strong that it wastes product or damages surfaces. For example, a 1:32 mix for 1 litre uses about 31 ml concentrate and 969 ml water. Dwell time is how long the cleaner must stay wet on the surface to loosen dirt or kill germs, so wiping too early reduces results. Temperature changes performance because warm conditions speed cleaning but can dry the surface fast, while cold conditions slow reactions and often need longer dwell. The best results come from a simple workflow: identify the soil, mix accurately (parts or C1V1 = C2V2), apply evenly, keep it wet for the full label time, then rinse properly. Always follow safety steps like PPE and SDS checks, use quick tables for ratios and dwell adjustments, and call professionals for high-risk or compliance jobs like commercial kitchens or molds.
Read it in more detail: floor cleaning services.
Step-by-Step Dilution Formula for Any Bottle Size
Start with the ratio method
Add the numbers in the ratio to find total parts. For 1:10, that is 11 parts total. Divide your final volume by total parts to get the size of one part. Multiply by the first number to get the concentrate amount.
Use C1V1 = C2V2 for custom strengths
If you know the active strength of a concentrate (like 10%) and you want a specific final strength (like 0.5%), use:
C1 × V1 = C2 × V2
So V1 = (C2 × V2) ÷ C1
Handle units carefully
Do the whole calculation in one unit (mL or L, oz or gal), then convert at the end.
Read it in more detail: power washing surface cleaning.
Step 1. First, know what the ratio means
Most cleaning labels use ratios like 1:10 or 1:32.
Standard meaning (most common):
1:10 = 1 part concentrate + 10 parts water
That makes 11 parts total.
So the concentrate is 1 out of 11 parts of the final mix.
Label confusion tip:
Some products say “1:10 dilution” but mean “1 part product in 10 parts total.”
That would be 1:9 (1 product + 9 water = 10 total).
If the label is unclear, look for an example like “100 mL per 1 L” and follow that.
Step 2. Ratio method (most common and easiest)
Step-by-step formula
If your ratio is 1:X (1 part concentrate, X parts water):
- Total parts = 1 + X
- One part size = Final volume ÷ Total parts
- Concentrate = 1 × One part size
- Water = X × One part size
Example A: Make 1 L at 1:32
Final volume = 1000 mL
Total parts = 1 + 32 = 33
One part = 1000 ÷ 33 = 30.3 mL
So:
- Concentrate = 30.3 mL
- Water = 32 × 30.3 = 969.7 mL
Practical measuring:
For general cleaning, you can round to 30 mL concentrate + 970 mL water.
For disinfectants and sanitisers, measure exactly as the label states.
Example B: Make 5 L at 1:10
Final volume = 5000 mL
Total parts = 1 + 10 = 11
One part = 5000 ÷ 11 = 454.5 mL
So:
- Concentrate = 454.5 mL (0.455 L)
- Water = 10 × 454.5 = 4545.5 mL (4.5455 L)
(You can round slightly for non-disinfectant cleaning jobs.)
Read it in more detail: power washer setup checklist.
Step 3. Quick way without “one part” (same result)
For 1:X, you can jump straight to concentrate:
- Concentrate = Final volume ÷ (1 + X)
- Water = Final volume − Concentrate
Example (1 L at 1:32):
- Concentrate = 1000 ÷ 33 = 30.3 mL
- Water = 1000 − 30.3 = 969.7 mL
Step 4. C1V1 = C2V2 method (for custom strengths)
Use this when:
- You know the concentrate strength (example: 10% active), and
- You want a specific final strength (example: 0.5%), not a ratio.
What each letter means
- C1 = concentrate strength
- V1 = volume of concentrate you must add
- C2 = desired final strength
- V2 = total final volume
Formula
C1 × V1 = C2 × V2
So: V1 = (C2 × V2) ÷ C1
Example: Make 2 L at 0.5% using a 10% concentrate
C1 = 10%
C2 = 0.5%
V2 = 2000 mL
V1 = (0.5 × 2000) ÷ 10
V1 = 1000 ÷ 10
V1 = 100 mL concentrate
Water = 2000 − 100 = 1900 mL water
Important: Keep units consistent (all mL or all L). Also keep strengths consistent (percent with percent, or decimals with decimals).
Read it in more detail: pressure washing chemicals.
Step 5. Unit handling that avoids mistakes
Handy conversions
- 1 L = 1000 mL
- US gallon = 128 oz
- US quart = 32 oz
- US pint = 16 oz
- US cup = 8 oz
Note: Imperial gallons differ from US gallons, and Australia mostly uses metric measures.
Rule
Do the whole calculation in one unit, then convert at the end if needed.
Step 6. Top-up scenario (how to fix a mix when you need more)
This is where many teams guess and ruin the ratio.
Reliable top-up method
- Calculate how much concentrate should be in the final total volume
- Subtract how much concentrate is already in your current mix
- Add the missing concentrate, then add water to reach the final volume
Example C: From 2 L to 3 L at 1:10
Step 1: Final concentrate needed in 3 L at 1:10
Total parts = 11
One part in 3 L = 3000 ÷ 11 = 272.7 mL
Final concentrate should be 272.7 mL
Step 2: Concentrate already in 2 L at 1:10
One part in 2 L = 2000 ÷ 11 = 181.8 mL
Current concentrate is 181.8 mL
Step 3: What to add
Missing concentrate = 272.7 − 181.8 = 90.9 mL
Missing total volume = 3000 − 2000 = 1000 mL
Water to add = 1000 − 90.9 = 909.1 mL
So add:
- 91 mL concentrate
- 909 mL water
Step 7. Quick cheat sheet (common ratios)
These are exact concentrate percentages (good for sanity checks):
- 1:4 → 1/5 = 20%
- 1:10 → 1/11 = 9.09%
- 1:16 → 1/17 = 5.88%
- 1:32 → 1/33 = 3.03%
- 1:64 → 1/65 = 1.54%
Step 8. Practical mixing workflow (clean and safe)
- Choose container size (1 L bottle, 5 L jug, 20 L bucket).
- Calculate concentrate amount first.
- Add water first (reduces splash and foaming).
- Add concentrate second.
- Top up with water to the final level.
- Cap and gently invert to mix.
- Label the bottle: product name, ratio, date, and area of use.
- For disinfectants and sanitisers, follow the label exactly for safety and performance.
Why Dwell Time Matters
Dwell time means how long a cleaner stays wet on a surface. Call it contact time or wet time too. Labels list it for disinfection claims.
Dwell lets the product loosen soil and break bonds. For degreasers, it emulsifies oils. Wiping early leaves dirt behind and cuts performance.
In disinfection, dwell kills microbes if the label says so. Without enough time, germs survive. This matters in homes for kitchens or facilities for restrooms.
Read it in more detail: commercial kitchen cleaning sydney.
The Chemistry Behind Dwell Time
Chemical reactions need time to work. Surfactants lower surface tension and lift dirt. Alkaline cleaners tackle grease with high pH.
Acidic cleaners dissolve minerals like limescale. Enzymatic cleaners use proteins to break organic soils. Quats, or quaternary ammonium compounds, disrupt cell walls in microbes.
Soil load affects dwell. Heavy grease or biofilms need longer. Porous surfaces soak up the product, so apply more. Oxidizers like hydrogen peroxide release oxygen to kill germs. Sodium hypochlorite, or bleach, works as an example but follows labels strictly.
Use the TACT principle: Time (dwell), Action (agitate), Chemical (type), Temperature. Balance them for best results.
How Temperature Changes Dwell Time
Warmer temperatures speed chemical reactions. Molecules move faster, so cleaners work quicker. These cuts needed dwell time slightly.
But heat boosts evaporation too. Hot surfaces or air dry the product fast, ending contact time early. You fail disinfection if it dries before the label minutes.
In cold rooms, reactions slow. Allow extra dwell to compensate. Freezing stops action, so warm solutions first.
Read it in more detail: How temperature affects power cleaning.
Practical Temperature Effect Guide
- Cold rooms and winter jobs: Reactions lag, so extend dwell by 20-50%. Test small areas. Avoid outdoor work below 5°C.
- Hot days or sunlit concrete: Drying happens quick. Work in small sections. Re-wet surfaces to maintain wet time. Use foaming products to cling longer.
In Sydney, summer heat and coastal humidity mix oddly. Breezes speed evaporation on outdoor paths, so reapply often for full dwell.
Real-world notes: On Sydney jobs, hot concrete dries cleaners in half the time. We foam edges first to hold moisture.
Dilution vs Strength vs Performance
Stronger dilutions don’t always clean better. High concentration leaves residues that make surfaces sticky. Sticky spots attract soil quicker, so you clean more often.
Over-strong mixes damage materials. Alkaline cleaners etch glass or fade fabrics. Acidic cleaners corrode metal. Follow label dilutions to prevent this.
Weak dilutions fail to emulsify grease or kill microbes. You waste time re-cleaning. Rinse well after dwelling to remove residues and cut slip risks. In commercial spots, this keeps floors safe.
Real-world notes: I’ve fixed jobs where “stronger” left streaking on tiles. Proper dilution plus rinse equals no callbacks.
A Practical Workflow
Pros follow this repeatable method for consistent results.
- Identify soil type and surface. Grease on tile? Biofilm on grout?
- Check label/SDS and pick dilution range. Use lower for light soil.
- Pre-clean heavy soil. Remove gross dirt with a scrape or vacuum.
- Apply evenly. Spray, mop, or foam to cover fully.
- Start a timer for dwell time. Use a phone or dwell timer app.
- Keep it wet for the full time. Reapply if it starts drying.
- Agitate when appropriate. Scrub gently for tough spots.
- Extract, rinse, or wipe correctly. Use clean tools to avoid re-soiling.
- Dry and inspect. Re-treat if needed.
Common mistakes: Skip pre-clean, so product can’t penetrate. Fix by always removing loose soil first. Wipe too soon? Wait for the full dwell next time. Uneven apply? Train on full coverage.
Safety and Compliance Basics
Wear PPE like gloves and eye protection. Ventilate areas to avoid fumes. Never mix incompatible chemicals, like acids with bleach.
Follow label directions exactly. SDS is your reference for hazards and first aid. Store chemicals securely.
Results depend on product and surface. No promises, but proper use keeps things safe.
Quick Reference Tables
Use these for fast checks on jobs.
Table 1: Ratio Cheat Sheet
| Ratio | Concentrate per 1 L | Concentrate per 5 L |
| 1:10 | 91 mL | 455 mL |
| 1:20 | 48 mL | 238 mL |
| 1:32 | 30 mL | 152 mL |
| 1:50 | 20 mL | 98 mL |
| 1:100 | 10 mL | 49 mL |
Table 2: Dwell Time Success Factors
| Factor | Effect | What to Do |
| Temperature | Warmer speeds reaction but evaporation | Re-wet in heat; extend in cold |
| Humidity | Low humidity dries faster | Add moisture or use foam |
| Airflow | Breezes speed drying | Block wind or work indoors |
| Surface Porosity | Porous soaks up product | Apply thicker layer |
| Soil Load | Heavy soil slows penetration | Pre-clean first |
| Application Method | Spray evaporates quick; foam clings | Choose foam for long dwell |
When to Call a Professional
Handle simple home tasks yourself. But call pros for high-risk areas.
Commercial kitchens need deep degreasing without residues. Healthcare spots require disinfection compliance.
Suspect mold? Experts test and remove safely. Porous surfaces with deep contamination, like carpets, need extraction tools.
Facilities with regulations benefit from trained teams. They ensure reliable results and avoid mistakes.
Read it in more detail: common power washer problems.
Conclusion
Correct dilution plus enough wet contact time is what makes cleaning consistent. Mix to the label ratio so the product works at the right strength, then keep the surface wet for the full dwell time so surfactants, enzymes, and disinfectants (when claimed) can do their job. Temperature matters too: warmth speeds reactions but also dries surfaces faster, so on hot days you may need to re-wet or use foam, while cold weather needs more patience.
Use a simple workflow: identify the soil and surface, check the label/SDS, measure accurately, apply evenly, time the dwell, keep it wet, agitate if needed, rinse or extract, then inspect. When you stop guessing and follow the process, you get safer spaces, fewer callbacks, and real savings on time and chemicals.
FAQs
1. How do I calculate 1:32 dilution for a spray bottle?
Ans. For a 500 mL bottle at 1:32, total parts are 33. One part is about 15 mL. Add 15 mL concentrate and 485 mL water. Measure with a cup for accuracy.
2. What happens if I wipe before dwell time ends?
Ans. Wiping early stops the reaction. Dirt stays stuck, and germs may survive. You get poor results and might need to re-clean.
3. Does hotter water always clean better?
Ans. Hot water speeds reactions but can damage surfaces or evaporate fast. Use warm for most jobs. Check labels to avoid issues.
4. Why does disinfectant need to stay wet?
Ans. Wet time lets the chemical kill microbes fully. If it dries early, efficacy drops. Labels specify minutes for claims.
5. Can I increase strength instead of waiting longer?
Ans. Stronger mixes risk residues and damage. Stick to label dilutions. Longer dwell often works better without extras.
6. Why do chemicals dry too fast on concrete?
Ans. Concrete is porous and holds heat. In the sun or wind, evaporation spikes. Re-wet or use foam to extend wet time.
7. What is the easiest way to measure small amounts?
Ans. Use a syringe or marked cup for tiny mL. Dosing systems auto-mix for big jobs. Avoid eyeballing.
8. How do I avoid sticky residue after cleaning?
Ans. Dilute correctly and rinse well. Over-strong leaves soap behind. Wipe with clean water post-dwell.
9. What is the difference between cleaning, sanitising, and disinfecting?
Ans. Cleaning removes visible dirt. Sanitising cuts germs on food areas. Disinfecting kills most pathogens on hard surfaces, per label.
10. How do I adjust dwell time in winter or cold rooms?
Ans. Cold slows action, so add 20-50% more time. Warm the solution first. Test to confirm results.
